Sunday, February 13, 2011
Not Your Mimi's Blue Eyeshadow
A few weeks ago I polled Facebook to see what looks you would like to see, the most intriguing was a new take on blue eyeshadow. Now blue eyeshadow has the capability of causing grown women to run shrieking in horror from their local department stores. I am here to tell you that it has gotten a bad rap....largely thanks to drag queens, sales associates that have not been properly trained, and Barnum and Bailey. The trick with bright or outlandish colors is to remember that moderation isn't just for the ABC store.
Unless of course you are;
a) Working your local corner
b) Twirling around a pole
c) Shaving your face before you put your makeup on
d) In the Broadway musical Hairspray
You get the idea...unless you WANT to be the center of attention, which is fine I've certainly been there, take it easy with blue and anyone can wear it. So to that end enjoy my first BLUEtorial, Not Your Mimi's Blue Eyeshadow.
First do NOT put your foundation on first, if you use the products I did you will regret it. One of the shadows is an extremely pigmented loose shadow and if you get fallout on your foundation you will quickly look like you got hit in the eye with a Smurf.
For this look I tried a new shadow base, the Urban Decay Primer Potion. It has gotten LOTS of good press on the internet and I must say it was both easy to use and didn't screw with the colors. So first thing is to prime your eye from lash to brow with Urban Decay Primer Potion.
I usually use some additional cream color bases because I find it makes the application go faster, last longer, and be more true to the pigment in the pot. My personal favorite is the flash color by Makeup Forever, but be careful if you use too much it will crease. That is the number one complaint about this product and like most birth control it is probably operator error when it doesn't work properly.
And yes I know my eyebrows are bushy but as much as I love y'all I don't really want to walk around looking like I am sponsored by McDonalds for the sake of tutorials. We'll save that for when I start making videos....maybe.
Apply the Makeup Forever Flash Color in Argent/Silver 003 with a flat synthetic brush to the inside of the eye. This one is a Presriptives Brush but every company in the world makes one.
Apply the Makeup Forever Flash Color in Bleu Vif/Bright Blue 014 with a synthetic round brush, I am using a cheapo one I got in a Lancome GWP.
Now this step requires a bit extra and can go horribly wrong if you aren't careful. I am using Royal Sugar loose pigment by Sugarpill Cosmetics. Their products are INSANELY pigmented and for someone not accustomed to professional products it may take some practice.
Typically this product works best if applied wet and then dry. So mix the Royal Sugar with MAC Fix Plus or water and then paint it on in the corner of your eye with a flat synthetic brush, blending the edges with your finger.
Now using the MAC 212 I am pressing Royal Sugar dry into the wet base I have put down. Do not worry about blending the edge that comes later.
Next using a contour brush, this one is Prescriptives, blend Sugarpill's pressed shadow in Afterparty from the center of the lid into the Royal Sugar. Don't go towards the tear duct too much as you will be using a silver shadow there.
Using the MAC 242 I am packing that silver shadow into the tear duct and onto the first part of the lid. Once you are done it should look like it bleeds from a metallic silver to a vivd deep cobalt blue on the lid. The shadow I used is by Prescriptives but any silver shadow will do.
An important point in regards to the products I am using here most of them have dupes in just about every line. BUT I have never seen anything like the Sugarpill products that I am using so if you want to duplicate this look exactly, order these specific colors from their website http://www.sugarpillshop.com
Using the MAC 224 I am blending a dark shimmery grey into the crease, this is a Prescriptives shade but many lines have deep shimmery greys. I am blending the edges of the silver and blues using this shadow and my MAC 224 airbrushing them right into the grey.
This step is IMPORTANT, as you will see in the following pictures this is the point that the blue becomes much softer and the overall look adopts it's smoky shimmery goodness.
Now using the same cheapo GWP brush I used for the blue cream base, I am blending a small amount of Makeup Forever's Flash Color in Noir/Black 011 in the lower lash line.
Using the MAC 224 again blend your dark shimmery grey into the lower lash line.
Using the MAC 252 and a soft matte or satin pink for the highlight blend it gently into the grey. I am using Chiffon by Prescriptives but again most brands have this shade. Don't use a shimmery highlight with this look it will simply be way too much.
Using the MAC 209 line the lashline using your favorite black gel liner. But work quickly because we are going to smoke it out and this product tends to dry fast.
Using the MAC 219 blend a black glittery shadow into your liner. I am using MAC Black Tied and honestly I think it is the best as far as this type of shadow goes. Not a lot of fall out and the glitter adheres nicely to the liner.
Using a metallic blue and silver liner line the water line going from the blue on the outer 2/3s of the eye to the silver on the tear duct and inner 1/3. I am using Prescriptives liners but I would reccomend Urban Decay's 24/7 Glide on Eye Pencils.
It is important to note that with looks like this you should go neutral with the cheeks and lips. I personally tried the new MAC MSF from the Wonder Woman Collection in Golden Lariat. It's a lovely bronzey shade that would look good on most skintones. Also I would suggest a nude glossy beige lip, every company known to man has one. This will ensure that your eyes are the focus and that your overall look isn't overwhelming.
Last but not least, curl and mascara your lashes, shape and fill your brow and you are ready to go to Wal-Mart in style!